Split-Level Dresser (How to refinish your dresser in 5 days)

This dresser was found in Greensboro, NC.  It needed a little bit of work, but the body was in pretty good shape and all of the original hardware was in great condition.  We have certain designs that we have come to appreciate over time, and the blend of white paint and stain is a classy look that can help improve just about any room that it is put in.  

This dresser was actually fairly unique because it had that bottom lip (the reason we deem this dresser a split-level).  Initially we were trying to figure out what to do with that bottom lip, but we finally decided to stain it the same color as the top of the dresser.

We used the following supplies on this dresser:

• Purdy 3-Pack Polyester-Nylon Blend Angle Sash Paint Brush Variety Pack
• Minwax Red Oak Oil-Based Interior Stain
• Behr Writer's Parchmant Paint
•  Minwax Polycrylic Satin Base 32 fl oz Polyurethane
  •  Unlike oil-based poly that goes on clear, this applies with as a milky color but dries crystal clear.
• Stain and Polyurethane Brush
  • There are many options for applying stain to the wood.  However, we have found that using a stain brush allows for more control over the application process.  Please make sure that you have an old rag around so you can wipe up any excess stain that may have dripped on to areas of the dresser that you do not wish to have stained and any stain that may have dripped on to the floor.  
• Bosch 2.5-Amp Orbital Sander
  • Just remember, this is a staple item that will continually be used, so you can utilize this on a ton of DIY projects after you make the purchase.  We decided on the Bosch sander because of the quality of the Bosch brand; however, you can probably get away with a cheaper option if you don't want to invest in a nicer sander, and if you only plan on doing a few DIY projects with it.  
• Gator 50-Pack 80-Grit 5-in W x 5-in L 8-Hole Hook and Loop Sanding Disc Sandpaper
  • Depending on the type of stain that the original manufacturer of the dresser used, you may be able to get away with just sanding down the dresser without using any type of stain remover (This is huge, because stain removers are a pain).  Just keep in mind that if the dresser is not solid wood, then you may want to go with a more gentle approach; i.e., a combination of stain remover and hand sanding.  
• Gator 50-Pack 5-in W x 5-in L 120-Grit Commercial 8-Hole Hook and Loop Sanding Disc Sandpaper
• Pro Grade Precision 9 in. x 11 in. 60 Grit Coarse Advanced Sanding Sheets
  • You will need to purchase some sandpaper for hand sanding purposes.  We like the 60 grit sand paper for more precision stripping, and it seems to be more effective than 80 grit (in terms of hand sanding, not to be confused with what we use on our orbital sander).  Make sure to get a pro grade, because it will last much longer than the cheap sandpaper, and the price difference is truly just a few dollars.  We also recommend that you purchase the sandpaper in sheets, because you can cut them in half and double the amount of sandpaper per purchase (this is preferred over purchasing the thinner strips of sandpaper; most hardware stores will sale both options).  Finally, if you plan on doing a lot of DIY projects, then buy the contractors pack (bulk pack), this will save you money over time and the frustrations of having to go back and forth to the hardware store for sandpaper. 
• Pro Grade Precision 9 in. x 11 in. 120 Grit Medium Advanced Sanding Sheets 
  • A lot of what we said for the 60 grit sanding sheets apply here.  However, we use the 120 to smooth out the wood after it has been stripped to give it a smoother surface before applying stain.  
• Pro Grade Precision 9 in. x 11 in. 320 Grit X-Fine Advanced Sanding Sheets  
  • This sandpaper will be necessary for smoothing out the surface between coats of polyurethane.  This will definitely help you to accomplish a great final product.  
• 3-2/3 in. x 9 in. Imperial Wet or dry 800-Grit Sandpaper Sheets
  • You want to use 800-grit sandpaper for wet sanding after the polyerathane has been applied in order to give the piece a silky smooth finish.
• Frog Tape Trim Painter's Tape
  • Frog tape is a life saver if you are going for a more professional look.  Generally speaking, it is a time consuming task to tape up the dresser, but you will be happy that you did when you see the finished product.
• Staging items that can be purchased online: 
  • Willow Tree You and Me

Day 1:  Sanding and Initial Taping

The first step is to sand down the body and drawers.  We recommend starting the sanding process with an orbital sander using an 80 grit sandpaper.  Then you will want to sand down the areas that you sanded with the orbital sander with a 120 grit sandpaper using the orbital sander.  Then you will want to use a 60 grit sandpaper to make sure all of the original finish has been properly removed from the areas that could not be reached with the orbital sander..  Finally, we hand sand with a 120 grit sandpaper to get a smoother wood before applying stain or paint.  ​ ​

After you have fully sanded the dresser down you can go ahead and do the initial taping to avoid (as much as possible) getting stain on the portions of the dresser that will be painted.  Remember, it's important to wash off all of the dust with a damp cloth before moving forward.

Day 2:  Staining the Top and Bottom Lip

During the second day you will focus on staining the portions of the dresser that you desire to be stained. Stain generally takes longer to dry, so you will want to give the stained surface at least 24 hours before taping off the stained areas for painting purposes.   ​​

Day 3 and 4: Second Taping and Painting

Depending on what time you stained the top the day before this may turn into a day 3 or day 4 activity (or a combination of the two days).

First, before you paint the body of the dresser you need to make sure to tape the inside of the of the body and the inside of the drawers.  It is always important to remember to tape the inside of the body where the drawers slide in and out, and the inside portions of the drawers where paint might drip/or paint brush might touch.  We will admit that this is not a necessary step, but if you want to have a re-purposed dresser that looks like a professional grade, then every detail matters.

Second, you can start the painting process. 

After you finish taping the body and drawer you can start painting. We usually use two coats of paint to ensure the paint is even across the whole body.  

Day 5: Applying Finish

After the stain and paint is dry you are ready to apply a coat of water based Polycrylic to both the body of the dresser and the drawers.  

Poly does two things: (1) it creates a layer of protection for the furniture from everyday abuse; and (2) it creates a smooth finish.  We typically apply two coats of poly, but some projects may require more. It is normal for the polycrylic to look a little creamy upon application, but it will dry with a clear finish. After the poly has dried you can perform a wet sanding technique with extremely fine sand paper to ensure that the stained areas are smooth to touch.  The wet sanding process is really simple, just spray on some lemon oil and lightly sand over the stained areas with an 800 grit sandpaper (you can also do this over the painted areas, but you need to be careful not to sand too aggressively over the painted areas or you will end up with a distressed look).  ​

If you follow this process you can have a beautiful dresser like this one in just five days!