Dixie Cast Iron Paint Dresser

This is a dresser that we found in Charlottesville, Virginia. We wanted to try a new paint color called Cast Iron by Sherwin Williams, and this dresser was perfect for the test. We absolutely love how the paint and stain compliment each other on this piece. There are more pictures of the finished product at the bottom of this page. 

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Materials

Before you get started, you'll need to gather the following materials: ​

• Purdy 3-Pack Polyester-Nylon Blend Angle Sash Paint Brush Variety Pack

• Cast Iron Sherwin Williams Paint
• Minwax Dark Walnut

​Minwax Polycrylic Matte Base 32 fl oz Polyurethane

•  Unlike oil-based poly that goes on clear, this will go on milky, but we have honestly been very satisfied with the result thus far.

Purdy Syntox Finish Brush

• You will need a special brush for the Polycrylic finish. The Purdy Syntox brush will do the trick.

​Frog Tape Trim Painter's Tape

• Frog tape is a life saver if you are going for a more professional look.  Generally speaking, it is a time consuming task to tape up the dresser, but you will be happy that you did when you see the finished product. 

CitriStrip Paste Multi-Surface Paint Remover

• CitriStrip is extremely effective, but we must give a warning; due to the fact that CitriStrip is thick and sticky it requires a little extra work to ensure that all of it has been removed from the wood, and it can be a headache later on if it is not properly removed (for us,  a combination of mineral spirits and steel wool seems to do the trick). 

Bosch 2.5-Amp Orbital Sander

• Just remember, this is a staple item that will continually be used, so you can utilize this on a ton of DIY projects after you make the purchase.  We decided on the Bosch sander because of the quality of the Bosch brand; however, you can probably get away with a cheaper option if you don't want to invest in a nicer sander, and if you only plan on doing a few DIY projects with it.  

Gator 50-Pack 80-Grit 5-in W x 5-in L 8-Hole Hook and Loop Sanding Disc Sandpaper

• Depending on the type of stain that the original manufacturer of the dresser used, you may be able to get away with just sanding down the dresser without using any type of stain remover (This is huge, because stain removers are a pain).  Just keep in mind that if the dresser is not solid wood, then you may want to go with a more gentle approach; i.e., a combination of stain remover and hand sanding.  

Pro Grade Precision 9 in. x 11 in. 60 Grit Medium Advanced Sanding Sheets ​

Pro Grade Precision 9 in. x 11 in. 120 Grit Medium Advanced Sanding Sheets 

• A lot of what we said for the 60 grit sanding sheets apply here.  However, we use the 120 to smooth out the wood after it has been stripped to give it a smoother surface before applying stain.  

• Pro Grade Precision 9 in. x 11 in. 320 Grit X-Fine Advanced Sanding Sheets  
  • This sandpaper will be necessary for smoothing out the surface between coats of polyurethane.  This will definitely help you to accomplish a great final product.  

Before Pictures

​Step One: Removing the Original Stain

We sanded the body down. As we usually do, we start our sanding process with our orbital sander using an 80 grit sandpaper. Then, we use 60 grit sandpaper to make sure all of the original finish has been properly removed. Finally, we hand sand with 120 grit sandpaper to get a smoother wood before applying paint and stain. This process seems to be extremely effective in putting the dresser in its bare-bones state. Make sure you wash it off with a damp cloth so that there is no dust or residue left on it. Once it is dry, it is time to tape around the edges! ​​​ We should note that we did not use the electric sander on the drawers because of their curved shape (but we did hand sand them).

Step Two: Stain the Top

We went ahead and stained the top of the dresser because stain generally takes longer to dry than paint. We apply our stain with a stain pad because its a little bit cleaner, but you can get a similar result using a stain brush. 

Step Three: Tape

​Before we painted the drawers and the body of the dresser, we made sure to tape the inside of the body and the inside of the drawers.  It is always important to remember to tape the inside of the body where the drawers slide in and out, and the inside portions of the drawers where paint might drip/or the paint brush might touch.  We will admit that this is not a necessary step, but if you want to have a re-purposed dresser that looks professional grade, then every detail matters.

Step Four: Paint

After we were finished with taping and staining the dresser we painted the dresser using cast iron paint.  We usually do two coats of paint to make sure that everything is sufficiently covered. We generally use Purdy paint brushes so that we can ensure that we get an excellent finish. ​​

Step Five: Apply Finish

After the paint was dry, we were ready to apply a coat of water-based Polycrylic to both the dresser's body and the drawers with a Purdy Syntox brush. After the first coat, we sanded down the dresser using 320 grit sandpaper; then, we applied a second coat of Polycrylic​.  ​

The End.

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